It was billed as the
“Collaboration of Smoke.” In 2014, Patrick Feges, young up-and-coming Houston
chef, and Wes Jurena, proprietor and smoked meat master of Pappa Charlie’s
Barbeque, joined forces to showcase their respective talents in the first Collaboration
of Smoke. Due to the popularity of the first time these friends came together for
a special event, and with a bit of prompting from their fan base, a second
Collaboration was convened on Saturday, July 18.
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| L to R, Patrick Feges, Wes Jurena, James Lestrer, and Jim Buchanan |
Feges, the named sous chef for
the imminent Southern
Goods opening, brought to the occasion his experience on the line at Brennan’s,
Underbelly and his recent year-long stint at Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland.
Jurena, fast becoming known for the best Houston barbecue inside the Loop, and who
has his
own big plans in the works, hosted their second event together at his
current regular location, Jackson’s Watering Hole in the Montrose area.
Collaboration
of Smoke provides a perfect opportunity for these two US Army Veterans to
showcase their respective abilities. Both are veritable experts at the helm of a wood-fired
smoker, and getting better all the time. Feges has shown his talents at
numerous highly-regarded “Feges BBQ” popups over the past two years (at
Ladybirds and D&T Drive In, for example), and is already regarded for his proficiency
in fusing smoked goods with tricked-up Southern staples. Jurena, who honed his
skills on the competition BBQ circuit, consistently delivers exceptional
brisket, pork spareribs and peppery smoked turkey at Pappa Charlie’s, and is
skilled at bringing out well-executed familiar comfort foods to pair with his
barbecue offerings. His velvety macaroni-and-cheese alone is worth the trip to
his trailer (try it topped with chopped brisket and offered as a main course).
Feges and
Jurena each showcased an offering of brisket and pork ribs, so guests were provided
with a unique opportunity to compare the styles of the two side by side. Black
pepper-laden, Central Texas-style briskets were provided by both, and Feges was
curious to hear feedback on his attempt at a version of the “hot-and-fast”
brisket style Jurena is known for. Each of their briskets were well-rendered
and flavorful, but Jurena, the master of the “hot-and-fast” method in Houston,
with hundreds of briskets using this method under his belt, still has the edge
here. Each delivered tender and flavorful ribs, but they varied slightly in
execution. Feges provided a sweeter glaze, while Jurena’s were smokier and more
savory; a bit of a departure from his “every-day” ribs that might be familiar
to his regular customers.
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| Jurena's brisket and rib |
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| Feges' baby back rib and brisket |
Feges’ smoked
boudin (his own recipe) and bacon-cheese grits topped with crumbled chicharones
was popular with the attendees. He also served up slices of smoked pork belly, along
with a tangy and cool red quinoa salad which incorporated cilantro, red onions,
halved grape tomatoes and a light vinaigrette.
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| Feges' smoked boudin with bacon-cheese grits and crumbled chicharones |
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| Smoked pork belly and quinoa salad |
Jurena brought
out smoked prime rib, coupled it with a mashed potato, cheese and horseradish
blend he calls “smashed taters,” which had enough horseradish heat to enliven
the gentler-flavored prime rib. He also introduced Pork ‘n Greens, consisting
of individual serving sizes of smoked collard greens (developed and refined by
his son, Jared), with a cap of pulled pork.
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| Smoked prime rib and smoked collard greens |
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| Fans of Pappa Charlie's will recognize this brisket |
Despite the sweltering summer evening and outdoor deck venue, a line formed early and was steady
throughout the event. The rising popularity of these two with the recent surge
in press for each of them was undoubtedly a factor in bringing out the masses.
The result?--sold out in 1 hour and 20 minutes.
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| Great turnout for "Collaboration of Smoke II" |
Hopefully twice makes for a
tradition, and we’ll see this fusion of Southern comfort food and barbecue by these
two become an annual occurrence. In the meantime, you’ll soon be able to sample
Feges’ creations on a regular basis at Southern Goods in The Heights, scheduled
to open in August. Jurena is still open for lunch on Friday, Saturday and
Sunday at Jackson’s Watering Hole, and thankfully will be open more than just 3
days a week for lunch AND dinner service at his new EaDo location at 2012 Rusk
St., currently planned for some time in September.
Feges BBQ:
Pappa Charlie's Barbecue:
