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Showing posts with label Smithville. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Smithville. Show all posts

Friday, March 4, 2016

Familiar Standbys and Joints You Haven't Tried Should Both Be Part of a Texas BBQ Road Trip


When we start thinking about a BBQ road trip, the logistics of trip planning go beyond just picking places on a particular route. We spend time reading reports and reviews by others, checking opening and typical sellout times, and asking questions of those who may live nearby or who have been there before us. We also strive to mix in new places with some that we've been to before, especially if we've had some memorable bites at those prior visits.

Surprisingly, we often find the best BBQ on these trips doesn't always come from the places that are popular or get the most press. Nothing is more rewarding than discovering a hidden gem along the way, with a particular cut of beef or pork that is so well-executed that we can't wait to tell others about it (cue the real-time social media blasts). Sometimes it's a new place, just starting out, but just as often it's an older established business that maybe isn't that well-known.

On this particular run we set out to hit 8 to 10 places, with some options to add, time permitting. We check media feeds along the way to see if any of our planned stops sell out so we can adjust our itinerary accordingly. Joining HoustonFed, BBQBryan and I on the trip this time was Greg Mueller, Midwest Southern Region Sales Rep for World Casing Corporation, worldwide supplier of natural sausage casings. Greg had just been on a BBQ run the day before with a certain other reputable Texas BBQ dignitary, so we were a little suspicious of his ability to keep up for his second meat feast in as many days! We shouldn't have worried; he was right in-step with us the whole day.

Our first target of the day was in Gonzales, Baker Boys BBQ, who we just visited a couple of months ago. We definitely needed to get confirmation that our first experience was as good as we thought it was.

Baker Boys BBQ - Gonzales, TX


Baker Boys BBQ has been open in Gonzales for just 6 months, but owner and pitmaster Wayne Baker is already delivering BBQ that demands attention. Well-seasoned brisket, house-made beef and pork sausage, and pork spareribs are worthy of making this a destination. A unique item here is the jalapeno-stuffed boneless chicken leg, lightly seasoned and smoked, and just $2. Baker Boys is a tremendous value as well--brisket price here is only $13/lb, other meats $12/lb or less, and sausage at $2.50 per link.

This was our second trip to Baker Boys in two months, and we wanted to give them a confirmation visit before we broadcast our admiration publicly. At our first visit, we knew we had stumbled onto something special, though we picked up on an overly-liberal use of table salt in the seasoning. It was still there in this recent visit, but used much more sparingly allowing the pepper and other seasonings to come through. If they can get the salt level dialed in, Baker Boys has the capability to be a solid TMBBQ Top 50 contender for years to come.

Brisket and ribs on the cutting board at Baker Boys BBQ

Brisket, ribs, sausage and stuffed chicken leg

Kolacny Bar-B-Q & Catering - Halletsville, TX


Kolacny Bar-B-Q and Catering got a lot of attention after Daniel Vaughn's TMBBQ review in September 2015. We had driven through Halletsville before, and even stopped for BBQ there, but were generally unaware of Kolcany prior to the buzz generated by TMBBQ. Ervin Kolacny and his wife Carolyn serve from 11:00 am til sold out on Saturdays and Sundays only, so plan your trip accordingly.

Daniel Vaughn raved about the pork steak here in his review, so this was our main target. We were too early for brisket, but picked up pork spareribs, a half chicken and sausage as well. All the meats here are cooked on their big direct heat pits, and mopped with a traditional Texas stock and vinegar mop sauce. The pork steak was delicious, lightly-seasoned with salt and pepper, and just a hint of smoke from its short time on the pit. The direct heat pits allow for a quick sear on the outisde over oak coals, and space to finish slowly using an indirect method, which locks in the juices for maximum flavor. Chicken was done in much the same way, and was by far one of the juiciest chicken examples we've encountered on any of our trips. Sausage is a typical pork blend, slightly coarse grind, and seasoned according to a family recipe.

Its not surprising that Kolacny's has escaped notice for as long as it has, given that its located several blocks south of the 4th Street in Halletsville in a residential neighborhood. Despite the challenges of its location, a visit to Kolacny's should be placed high on your priority list. It's hard to find product of this quality and value still being delivered using the traditional direct heat method.

Coal bed pit, sheet of tin siding for a screen, fire stoked with a box fan #oldschool

Ervin Kolacny checks on his ribs and chicken

Pork steak, ribs and sausage

Smithville Pit BBQ - Smithville, TX

Smithville Pit BBQ recently opened in the building formerly occupied by one of our favorites, Zimmerhanzel's, which closed at the end of last year after more than 35 years in business. The new owner is their former neighbor, Cliff Burns, owner of Smithville Food Lockers. We were anxious to see what changes might have been made to the meat selections. We were also hopeful that the incredible sausage recipe carried over, since it was reported in a February Austin American-Statesman article that the former owners had use of Smithville Food Lockers to make sausage and process meats.

New walk-up, take-out window at Smithville Pit BBQ (formerly Zimmerhanzel's)

The all-beef sausage at Zimmerhanzel's had been one of our best all-around BBQ bites of 2015. Our first crack into the Smithville Pit BBQ version gave us pause. The clear-running juice and moisture content just wasn't there this time. The blend seemed to match the previous version in texture and spices, so there's hope for improvement if that moisture level can be brought back up to where it used to be. Pork ribs were good, and definitely had a different rub that what we experienced before. The brisket was well-seasoned but needed some more time on the pit and a rest.

The parking lot was full of cars at mid-day on a Saturday, and the new walk-up window had a brisk business. Cliff Burns said in his interview with the Statesman it wouldn't be the same, but they "hope to offer something just as good if not better." It was good, but they've only been open a couple of weeks. Maybe it's not better just yet, but it was good enough to keep Smithville Pit BBQ on our list for future visits to see how they develop.

A little brisket, pork spareribs, and sausage at Smithville Pit BBQ

Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ - Austin, TX


We had not been to Valentina's before, but it was high on our agenda of places to try this year. We were able to meet our friend Jimmy Ho and his wife Amber here. At Valentina's you place your order at the trailer window, take a number, and claim your territory at one of many picnic tables while you wait. It didn't hurt that they're located in the parking lot of a convenience store, so there are plenty of options for ice-cold beverages right there. 

Plenty of outside seating at Valentina's

Jimmy has been here many times, so he provided some guidance on what to order. We settled on brisket tacos, a sausage link and a couple of pork spareribs. They jalapeno-cheese sausage they brought was okay, but not particularly remarkable. The ribs were seasoned and cooked well, but once we saw the brisket tacos, we knew we were onto something special. Served on their own homemade tortillas, with guacamole, salsa and a wedge of lime to squeeze, these were a highlight of the day. My only regret is that we didn't order them with sliced brisket so we could have had a better feel for the overall quality of the beef product, but the chopped was excellent anyway. We will definitely be including Valentina's on future BBQ runs in the Austin area based on these tacos alone!

Brisket tacos, pork spareribs, and jalapeno cheese sausage

The brisket tacos are served on homemade tortillas, with fresh guacamole and salsa

La Barbecue - Austin, TX

The queue for La Barbecue at 4:00 pm
We had been to La Barbecue in the past, but all independently. Given the recent departure of pitmaster Esaul Ramos, and the elevation of Dylan Taylor as the new pitmaster, we wanted to see how the transition is working out. At this point in our trip, we were way behind our planned schedule, having lingered a little to long at some of the previous stops. So it was after 4:00 pm before we made it to the line, and noticed several items already sold out.

Brisket was still available, and knowing that La Barbecue delivers some of the best in Texas, it was an easy choice for us. With a little potato salad and homemade pickles on the side, we settled comfortably into a feast of this sublime brisket. Every bite was memorable and spectacular, and even more so given that this was 4:00 pm brisket! If you've never been to La Barbecue, you're missing out on some of the Top 10 BBQ in the state in my opinion. And generally speaking, the lines are never terribly long, so you're assured of getting quality product.

The relocation last September to the Aztec Food Park at 1906 E. Cesar Chavez seems like a good fit. The vibe is great, and we had a good time visiting with several local regulars. And with the barely-21-year-old pitmaster Dylan Taylor at the helm, it was comforting to see they remain in good hands and the quality hasn't declined one bit.

Ready for your close-up, beautiful?

Moist brisket, potato salad, and homemade pickles

Freedmen's - Austin, TX

Smoked jalapeno pimento cheese spread, house-made focaccia

It's almost impossible for us to make a trip to Austin without including a stop at Freedmen's Bar. Our last trip in August just confirmed what we had already come to believe--Freedmen's is destination BBQ, and not to be missed. With Evan LeRoy at the pit, they deliver the best brisket in Austin on a consistent basis. As a testament to their pit management skills, we arrived this time after 6:30 pm, and the brisket we received with the thick, flavor-filled bark matched the high quality we've previously had on mid-day visits.

I couldn't pass up the opportunity to hit them up for a tray of their smoked jalapeno pimento cheese and homemade focaccia either. After an all-meat day, it's a fantastic change of pace in both flavor and texture. But beware, if you're a guest of mine, you might need to order your own. It's so good, I'm not that inclined to share!

Moist brisket and sausage sampler, nighttime BBQ in Austin

I hope the recollection of our trips via this blog inspires you to get out and embark on a Texas BBQ adventure of your own. I'll continue to try to provide useful and comprehensive information to help you decide on where to go. If you have any questions or need more details, you can always contact me via the multiple options I've provided on the right sidebar of this page. As always, I welcome your comments, and suggestions on places we still need to try!

Fill your gas tanks, check your oil and tires, and hit the road.

- Scott


A 14-hour day this time (we lingered longer than we typically do at several places),
and traveled just about 500 miles total round trip.

All photos © Scott Sandlin, Texas Pit Quest, unless noted otherwise. All rights reserved.


Baker Boys BBQ, 1404 Sarah DeWitt Dr., Gonzales, TX 78629, (830) 519-4400.
Hours: Monday through Friday, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. Saturday 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. Closed Sunday. www.facebook.com/BakerBoysBBQ

Kolacny Bar-B-Q & Catering, 100 S. Russell St., Halletsville, TX 77964, (361) 798-4400. 
Hours: Saturday and Sunday only, 11:00 am until sold out.
www.facebook.com/pages/Kolacnys-Bar-B-Q-House/126592390728071

Smithville Pit BBQ, 307 Royston St., Smithville, TX 78745, (512) 237-4244.
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10:00 am to 3:00 pm. Closed Sunday.
Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ, 7612 Brodie Ln., Austin, TX 76574, (512) 221-4248.
Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 8:00 am to 10:00 pm (or sold out). Monday, 8:00 am to 6:00 pm (or sold out). www.valentinastexmexbbq.com

La Barbecue, 1906 E. Cesar Chavez, Austin, TX 78702, (512) 605-9696.
Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 11:00 am to 6:00 pm (or sold out).
www.labarbecue.com

Freedmen's, 2402 San Gabriel St., Austin, TX 78705, (512) 220-0953.
Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday, 11:00 am to 10:00 pm. Thursday through Saturday, 11:00 am to 12:00 am. Sunday, 11:00 am to 10:00 pm. Closed Mondays.
www.freedmensbar.com

Monday, April 20, 2015

10 Texas BBQ Joints in One Day, 500 Miles of Barbecue


Is it possible to visit and eat at ten Texas BBQ Joints in one day?

Not only is it possible, but entirely achievable, and we proved it this past Saturday on a 523-mile round trip, Texas back road BBQ Quest. We actually stopped at 11 places, but one was sold out, so we were just able to sample 10. And we passed many others, so logistically it would have been easy to extend it to as many as 15, maybe more.

To pull this off, @BBQBryan, @HoustonFed and I knew we had to have a system and the discipline to stick to it. It isn't possible to do this if everyone orders individually (or very affordable). Our basic plan was to get no more than a Trinity sample--a couple of slices of brisket, one sausage link, and one sparerib at each location, and split it between the three of us. Remarkably, this turned out to be no more than about $11 at most places we visited. We stuck to the plan for the most part, and at the end of the day, we were still doing (feeling) well, and imagined we could have added two or three more stops.

@HoustonFed has a comprehensive write-up posted at his blog of our trip and things to consider if you are interested in taking on something like this yourselves. Here are a few tips of my own:

  1. Take 3 or 4 people. You need to split your order so you don't take on too much at any one stop, even though they're small. Order extra to-go if you find something you especially like.
  2. Try to stick to water or tea; refrain from the soda or beer, as appealing as it may be. It takes up too much real estate that you'll need if you want a sample at ten (or more) stops. Save your beer for the last stop to celebrate what you've accomplished!
  3. Don't get tempted by the sides--also a space killer. Get some to-go so you can try them later at home. Or at least limit it to just one bite.
  4. Include a couple of segments with a little more distance between them. You'll be glad to have the extra digestion time to help you make it to the end.


City Market, Schulenburg

City Market, Schulenburg. 

We hit our first stop of the day about 8:15 am, just after City Market opened. Sausage was ready, but the day's briskets were not quite done. We did get to try a few early, end-cut brisket samples, which turned out to be pretty tasty. This is a functioning meat market, and they are well-known for their house-made wieners. City Market is worth the detour off of I-10 for their "better-than-highway food" product and hospitality.


Interior at City Market

Wood-fired pits at City Market

Nice looking City Market brisket for our first brisket shot of the day

Prause Meat Market, La Grange

Prause Meat Market in La Grange, on the downtown square. In operation at this location since 1953.

Prause Meat Market is a functioning meat butchering and sales business. The pits are in the smokehouse in the back of the building. Great-grandfather Arnold Prause opened the first Prause Meat Market in 1904. They moved to this current location on the downtown square in 1953, now operated by the fourth generation of Prauses.

We ended up with a sausage sample, which was all that was ready when we arrived. Crispy skin with a good snap, a juicy combination of beef and pork--very good. We will be back another day to try their brisket, ribs and pork roll. Kathy Prause asked us to follow her to the back, where we found Mark Prause busy tending the pits and giving one final mop to their other products. Mark was happy to show us around the smokehouse and share stories about the operation and the historic pits.

Gary Prause at work in the market

Some stories in the pits at Prause, for sure. Mark Prause at the pit.

Sausages on the pit at Prause, ready to turn

Zimmerhanzel's BBQ, Smithville

Zimmerhanzel's BBQ, Smithville

Zimmerhanzel's has a reputation for their sausage, and for selling out on Saturdays, so we planned them as one of our early stops. The brisket, spareribs, and sausage were all very good, with the standout for us being their all-beef sausage. It was still packed with enough fat to stay juicy, and a really good spice balance that paired well with the beef. This was probably the best sausage we had all day. We had to pick up a few extra to take home.

Lining up at Zimmerhanzel's

Sausage and brisket at Zimmerhanzel's; that all-beef sausage was a hit

Some great spareribs at Zimmerhanzel's

Pieous, Austin

Pieous, SW of Austin on 290

Pieous is not a BBQ joint, but we had been hearing of their spectacular house-smoked pastrami for some time. (Pastrami is brisket, right?) It turned out the word on the street was truth--this was a great pastrami, and immediately had us looking forward to our next visit. I can't wait to try it on one of their wood-fired pizzas or sandwiches. The beef is brined pastrami-style, the final seasonings applied, and then smoked, all in-house. It turns out the building was a barbecue restaurant in a previous life, and the smoker was still in place when it was acquired by Pieous. The owner, Josh, decided to put it to good use, and started developing and turning out pastrami. Similar in some ways to peppery Central Texas BBQ brisket, but with a completely different flavor profile. This pastrami is excellent--tender, and almost delicate, and bursting with flavor from the brine and other seasonings. Pass the mustard!

Interior at Pieous

Pieous' wood-fired pizza oven

The house-smoked pastrami from Pieous was truly incredible

Schmidt Family Barbecue, Bee Cave

Schmidt Family Barbecue, Bee Cave

Our stop at Schmidt Family Barbecue happened to coincide with the noon hour, and beer on ice in the waiting line was too tempting to pass up. We were able to try a couple of great beers from local breweries, Twisted X Premium Lager and Infamous Brewing Company's Hijack Cream Ale. We ordered our brisket, sausage and rib, and pronounced each as very good. We were also able to spend some time visiting with their young pitmaster Troy Warlick, who moved into this position from the line inside less than two years ago. You wouldn't know it from the quality of his brisket, which was the standout for us on this visit. This is definitely a place to add to your list if you're headed out Highway 71 west of Austin on the south side of Lake Travis.

Young pitmaster Troy Warlick of Schmidt Family Barbecue

One happy brisket maker

Fantastic brisket at Schmidt Family Barbecue

It's All Good BBQ, Spicewood

It's All Good BBQ, Spicewood

This little place on Highway 71 between Bee Cave and Spicewood is in a beautiful setting, surrounded by mature oaks. Look for the smoke emanating from the pistol-shaped smoker under their sign on the road. This is a nice country joint, with fun, family atmosphere. We limited our selection to brisket and ribs here, since their sausage is sourced from elsewhere. I look forward to our next visit where we can take our time and sit outside and enjoy looking out over the beautiful Central Texas Hill Country.

Interior at It's All Good BBQ

Rib and fatty brisket from It's All Good BBQ

Opie's Barbecue, Spicewood

Opie's Barbecue, Spicewood

This was a great stop, and we knew we would spend some time here, so we built it into our schedule. It's always a pleasure to visit with owner Todd Ashmore; he is absolutely one of the happiest and funniest guys in Texas BBQ. He loves what he does, and he's doing it very well. Here we not only got to sample the Trinity, but also a big beef rib, some baby backs, and a few of their famous sides (tip: don't skip the Tater Tot Casserole). Everything was great; the brisket was tender and moist and full of flavor, and the baby backs brought enough heat in their spice to make them particularly memorable. We knew this was going to be a favorite from past visits, and that was reflected in this being our biggest haul of the day in extra to-go items.

Opie's unique "ordering pit"; pick out what you want and they slice and serve it for you

Counter at Opie's, a few of their awesome rock-n-roll BBQ shirts beyond

Beautiful spread at Opie's, which could have really done us in if we ate it all

Payne's Bar-B-Q Shak, Burnet

Payne's sold out; we'll be back!

Hwy 29 BBQ, Bertram

Hwy 29 BBQ, building constructed in 1882

Hwy 29 BBQ was at the end of their day as we arrived, and we were able to procure some lean brisket, sausage, and a banana pudding for each of us (there's been buzz about this banana pudding!). Even late in the day, this brisket was great; nice bark, good smoke, and tender--brisket we will definitely be back for. And it's a good thing we each got our own banana pudding. You will not want to share! Owner Corey Thibodeaux spent some time showing us their stone pits out back and shared his story of how he got into the BBQ business. He grew up in Port Arthur, and had never really had much good BBQ. It was trip to Smitty's Market in Lockhart, standing in the smokehouse in the midst of Texas BBQ history, when he had his moment of nirvana, and knew this was something special. He's turning out some great product for being in the business for only about 2 years. Take the time to drive out from Austin to Bertram and visit Hwy 29 BBQ; you will not be disappointed.

Hwy 29 BBQ, inside view

Stone pits at Hwy 29 BBQ in Bertram

Even late in the day, this Hwy 29 BBQ brisket was really good

Brown's Bar-B-Que, Austin

Brown's BBQ 

Brown's was an addition to our agenda, since we missed out on one of our originally-intended destinations. A food trailer on south Lamar in Austin, Brown's operates in front of The Corner Bar. The brisket here was recommended by a fellow BBQ chaser, and we picked up some of their jalapeno sausage as well. This was a first visit for each of us. The sausage was fine-textured, but not too tightly-packed, and held its juices well. Deep, smoky brisket, tender, maybe a little too smoky for my taste. Of our two selections, the sausage was our preference on this visit. We look forward to trying Brown's again on a future Austin visit.

Brown's brisket on deck

Nice looking sausage and brisket at Brown's

Terry Black's Barbecue, Austin

Terry Black's Barbecue in Austin on Barton Springs Rd.

Terry Black's is a great all-around barbecue destination that's recently been added to the Austin BBQ scene. This was a good way to end our day. Our order here was just right--one thick slice of peppery, Central Texas-style brisket that Black's is known for, and a great sparerib (maybe the best of our day). If you've been to Black's in Lockhart, you'll have a familiar sense of the pedigree of that brisket.

It was nice to sit outside, relax a bit, and reflect on what we had just accomplished, before hitting the road for home. We arrived at our first stop just after 8:00 am, and finished at our last stop right at 7:00 pm. Eleven stops in 11 hours (eating at ten), plus 2-1/2 hours added on each end for the drive to and from Houston, and we finished with a 16-hour day. We're probably a little crazy, but hey, who isn't. Three guys with similar interests, chasing BBQ, meeting some interesting people, and seeing some great country. At least it keeps us out of trouble.

Great outdoor dining area

Black's slicing table, with brisket, beef ribs, sausage and spareribs

Very good ribs and peppery brisket to end our day at Terry Black's

Mike tending the fire boxes at Terry Black's

The Aftermath (bonus time!)

The Sunday morning perks of a Saturday BBQ run:

Brisket-on-a-biscuit, home-version, made with Opie's brisket

Cheddar and Zimmerhanzel's smoked sausage omelette




We made it. 10 stops. And in the end, unbelievably we felt like we could do more. Is it possible? Sure, it's really just a matter of logistics. With research and a well-timed plan, coupled with the discipline not to overdo it at any one spot, there's enough good Texas BBQ spaced along the road to take on 12, 15--maybe more. Will we be the ones to try it? Will you?

Let us know if you're so inclined. Maybe we'll tag along. :)

- Scott


City Market, 109 Kessler Ave., Schulenburg, TX 78956, (979) 743-3440.
Hours: Monday through Friday, 8:00 am to 5:30 pm. Saturday, 8:00 am to 6:00 pm. Closed Sunday.
www.citymarketsch.com

Prause Meat Market, 253 West Travis, La Grange, TX 78945, (979) 968-3259.
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 7:00 am to 2:00 pm. Friday, 7:00 am to 5:30 pm. Saturday, 5:30 am to 1:00 pm. Closed Sunday.
www.facebook.com/prausesmeatmarket

Zimmerhanzel's BBQ, 307 Royston St., Smithville, TX 78957, (512) 237-4244.
Hours: Monday through Friday, 8:30 am to 5:00 pm. Saturday, 8:30 am til sold out. Closed Sunday.

Pieous, 12005 Hwy 290 West, Austin, TX 78737, (512) 394-7041.
Hours: Tuesday through Friday, 11:00 am to 2:00 pm, and 4:00 pm to 9:00 pm. Saturday 11:00 am to 9:00 pm. Sunday 11:00 am to 8:00 pm. Closed Monday.

Schmidt Family Barbecue, 12532 FM 2244, Bee Cave, TX 78738, (512) 263-4060.
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11:00 am to 9:00 pm. Sunday 11:00 am to 8:00 pm.

It's All Good BBQ, 22112 HWY 71, Spicewood, TX 78669 (512) 264-1744.
Hours: Wednesday 11:00 am to 8:00 pm. Thursday through Sunday, 11:00 am to 9:00 pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Opie's Barbecue, 9504 E Texas Hwy. 71, Spicewood, TX 78669, (830) 693-8660.
Hours: Monday and Tuesday 11:00 am to 4:00 pm. Wednesday and Thursday 11:00 am to 7:00 pm. Friday and Saturday, 11:00 am to 8:00 pm. Sunday 11:00 am to 7:00  pm.

Payne's Bar-B-Q Shak, 616 Buchanan Dr., Burnet, TX 78611, (512) 756-8227.
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday 11:00 am to 2:30 pm. Friday 11:00 am to 7:30 pm. Saturday 11:00 am to 2:30 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Hwy 29 BBQ, 110 W State Hwy 29, Bertram, TX 78605, (512) 277-7020.
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday 11:00 am to 7:30 pm. Sunday 11:00 am to 3:00 pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Brown's Bar-B-Que, 1901 S. Lamar Blvd., Austin, TX 78704, (512) 517-8520.
Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday, 11:00 am to 7:00 pm. Thursday through Saturday, 11:00 am to 11:00 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Terry Black's Barbecue, 1003 Barton Springs Road, Austin, TX 78704, (512) 394-5899.
Hours: Open daily 11:00 am to 9:00 pm.
www.terryblacksbbq.com