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Showing posts with label TMBBQ Top 50. Show all posts
Showing posts with label TMBBQ Top 50. Show all posts

Friday, March 4, 2016

Familiar Standbys and Joints You Haven't Tried Should Both Be Part of a Texas BBQ Road Trip


When we start thinking about a BBQ road trip, the logistics of trip planning go beyond just picking places on a particular route. We spend time reading reports and reviews by others, checking opening and typical sellout times, and asking questions of those who may live nearby or who have been there before us. We also strive to mix in new places with some that we've been to before, especially if we've had some memorable bites at those prior visits.

Surprisingly, we often find the best BBQ on these trips doesn't always come from the places that are popular or get the most press. Nothing is more rewarding than discovering a hidden gem along the way, with a particular cut of beef or pork that is so well-executed that we can't wait to tell others about it (cue the real-time social media blasts). Sometimes it's a new place, just starting out, but just as often it's an older established business that maybe isn't that well-known.

On this particular run we set out to hit 8 to 10 places, with some options to add, time permitting. We check media feeds along the way to see if any of our planned stops sell out so we can adjust our itinerary accordingly. Joining HoustonFed, BBQBryan and I on the trip this time was Greg Mueller, Midwest Southern Region Sales Rep for World Casing Corporation, worldwide supplier of natural sausage casings. Greg had just been on a BBQ run the day before with a certain other reputable Texas BBQ dignitary, so we were a little suspicious of his ability to keep up for his second meat feast in as many days! We shouldn't have worried; he was right in-step with us the whole day.

Our first target of the day was in Gonzales, Baker Boys BBQ, who we just visited a couple of months ago. We definitely needed to get confirmation that our first experience was as good as we thought it was.

Baker Boys BBQ - Gonzales, TX


Baker Boys BBQ has been open in Gonzales for just 6 months, but owner and pitmaster Wayne Baker is already delivering BBQ that demands attention. Well-seasoned brisket, house-made beef and pork sausage, and pork spareribs are worthy of making this a destination. A unique item here is the jalapeno-stuffed boneless chicken leg, lightly seasoned and smoked, and just $2. Baker Boys is a tremendous value as well--brisket price here is only $13/lb, other meats $12/lb or less, and sausage at $2.50 per link.

This was our second trip to Baker Boys in two months, and we wanted to give them a confirmation visit before we broadcast our admiration publicly. At our first visit, we knew we had stumbled onto something special, though we picked up on an overly-liberal use of table salt in the seasoning. It was still there in this recent visit, but used much more sparingly allowing the pepper and other seasonings to come through. If they can get the salt level dialed in, Baker Boys has the capability to be a solid TMBBQ Top 50 contender for years to come.

Brisket and ribs on the cutting board at Baker Boys BBQ

Brisket, ribs, sausage and stuffed chicken leg

Kolacny Bar-B-Q & Catering - Halletsville, TX


Kolacny Bar-B-Q and Catering got a lot of attention after Daniel Vaughn's TMBBQ review in September 2015. We had driven through Halletsville before, and even stopped for BBQ there, but were generally unaware of Kolcany prior to the buzz generated by TMBBQ. Ervin Kolacny and his wife Carolyn serve from 11:00 am til sold out on Saturdays and Sundays only, so plan your trip accordingly.

Daniel Vaughn raved about the pork steak here in his review, so this was our main target. We were too early for brisket, but picked up pork spareribs, a half chicken and sausage as well. All the meats here are cooked on their big direct heat pits, and mopped with a traditional Texas stock and vinegar mop sauce. The pork steak was delicious, lightly-seasoned with salt and pepper, and just a hint of smoke from its short time on the pit. The direct heat pits allow for a quick sear on the outisde over oak coals, and space to finish slowly using an indirect method, which locks in the juices for maximum flavor. Chicken was done in much the same way, and was by far one of the juiciest chicken examples we've encountered on any of our trips. Sausage is a typical pork blend, slightly coarse grind, and seasoned according to a family recipe.

Its not surprising that Kolacny's has escaped notice for as long as it has, given that its located several blocks south of the 4th Street in Halletsville in a residential neighborhood. Despite the challenges of its location, a visit to Kolacny's should be placed high on your priority list. It's hard to find product of this quality and value still being delivered using the traditional direct heat method.

Coal bed pit, sheet of tin siding for a screen, fire stoked with a box fan #oldschool

Ervin Kolacny checks on his ribs and chicken

Pork steak, ribs and sausage

Smithville Pit BBQ - Smithville, TX

Smithville Pit BBQ recently opened in the building formerly occupied by one of our favorites, Zimmerhanzel's, which closed at the end of last year after more than 35 years in business. The new owner is their former neighbor, Cliff Burns, owner of Smithville Food Lockers. We were anxious to see what changes might have been made to the meat selections. We were also hopeful that the incredible sausage recipe carried over, since it was reported in a February Austin American-Statesman article that the former owners had use of Smithville Food Lockers to make sausage and process meats.

New walk-up, take-out window at Smithville Pit BBQ (formerly Zimmerhanzel's)

The all-beef sausage at Zimmerhanzel's had been one of our best all-around BBQ bites of 2015. Our first crack into the Smithville Pit BBQ version gave us pause. The clear-running juice and moisture content just wasn't there this time. The blend seemed to match the previous version in texture and spices, so there's hope for improvement if that moisture level can be brought back up to where it used to be. Pork ribs were good, and definitely had a different rub that what we experienced before. The brisket was well-seasoned but needed some more time on the pit and a rest.

The parking lot was full of cars at mid-day on a Saturday, and the new walk-up window had a brisk business. Cliff Burns said in his interview with the Statesman it wouldn't be the same, but they "hope to offer something just as good if not better." It was good, but they've only been open a couple of weeks. Maybe it's not better just yet, but it was good enough to keep Smithville Pit BBQ on our list for future visits to see how they develop.

A little brisket, pork spareribs, and sausage at Smithville Pit BBQ

Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ - Austin, TX


We had not been to Valentina's before, but it was high on our agenda of places to try this year. We were able to meet our friend Jimmy Ho and his wife Amber here. At Valentina's you place your order at the trailer window, take a number, and claim your territory at one of many picnic tables while you wait. It didn't hurt that they're located in the parking lot of a convenience store, so there are plenty of options for ice-cold beverages right there. 

Plenty of outside seating at Valentina's

Jimmy has been here many times, so he provided some guidance on what to order. We settled on brisket tacos, a sausage link and a couple of pork spareribs. They jalapeno-cheese sausage they brought was okay, but not particularly remarkable. The ribs were seasoned and cooked well, but once we saw the brisket tacos, we knew we were onto something special. Served on their own homemade tortillas, with guacamole, salsa and a wedge of lime to squeeze, these were a highlight of the day. My only regret is that we didn't order them with sliced brisket so we could have had a better feel for the overall quality of the beef product, but the chopped was excellent anyway. We will definitely be including Valentina's on future BBQ runs in the Austin area based on these tacos alone!

Brisket tacos, pork spareribs, and jalapeno cheese sausage

The brisket tacos are served on homemade tortillas, with fresh guacamole and salsa

La Barbecue - Austin, TX

The queue for La Barbecue at 4:00 pm
We had been to La Barbecue in the past, but all independently. Given the recent departure of pitmaster Esaul Ramos, and the elevation of Dylan Taylor as the new pitmaster, we wanted to see how the transition is working out. At this point in our trip, we were way behind our planned schedule, having lingered a little to long at some of the previous stops. So it was after 4:00 pm before we made it to the line, and noticed several items already sold out.

Brisket was still available, and knowing that La Barbecue delivers some of the best in Texas, it was an easy choice for us. With a little potato salad and homemade pickles on the side, we settled comfortably into a feast of this sublime brisket. Every bite was memorable and spectacular, and even more so given that this was 4:00 pm brisket! If you've never been to La Barbecue, you're missing out on some of the Top 10 BBQ in the state in my opinion. And generally speaking, the lines are never terribly long, so you're assured of getting quality product.

The relocation last September to the Aztec Food Park at 1906 E. Cesar Chavez seems like a good fit. The vibe is great, and we had a good time visiting with several local regulars. And with the barely-21-year-old pitmaster Dylan Taylor at the helm, it was comforting to see they remain in good hands and the quality hasn't declined one bit.

Ready for your close-up, beautiful?

Moist brisket, potato salad, and homemade pickles

Freedmen's - Austin, TX

Smoked jalapeno pimento cheese spread, house-made focaccia

It's almost impossible for us to make a trip to Austin without including a stop at Freedmen's Bar. Our last trip in August just confirmed what we had already come to believe--Freedmen's is destination BBQ, and not to be missed. With Evan LeRoy at the pit, they deliver the best brisket in Austin on a consistent basis. As a testament to their pit management skills, we arrived this time after 6:30 pm, and the brisket we received with the thick, flavor-filled bark matched the high quality we've previously had on mid-day visits.

I couldn't pass up the opportunity to hit them up for a tray of their smoked jalapeno pimento cheese and homemade focaccia either. After an all-meat day, it's a fantastic change of pace in both flavor and texture. But beware, if you're a guest of mine, you might need to order your own. It's so good, I'm not that inclined to share!

Moist brisket and sausage sampler, nighttime BBQ in Austin

I hope the recollection of our trips via this blog inspires you to get out and embark on a Texas BBQ adventure of your own. I'll continue to try to provide useful and comprehensive information to help you decide on where to go. If you have any questions or need more details, you can always contact me via the multiple options I've provided on the right sidebar of this page. As always, I welcome your comments, and suggestions on places we still need to try!

Fill your gas tanks, check your oil and tires, and hit the road.

- Scott


A 14-hour day this time (we lingered longer than we typically do at several places),
and traveled just about 500 miles total round trip.

All photos © Scott Sandlin, Texas Pit Quest, unless noted otherwise. All rights reserved.


Baker Boys BBQ, 1404 Sarah DeWitt Dr., Gonzales, TX 78629, (830) 519-4400.
Hours: Monday through Friday, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. Saturday 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. Closed Sunday. www.facebook.com/BakerBoysBBQ

Kolacny Bar-B-Q & Catering, 100 S. Russell St., Halletsville, TX 77964, (361) 798-4400. 
Hours: Saturday and Sunday only, 11:00 am until sold out.
www.facebook.com/pages/Kolacnys-Bar-B-Q-House/126592390728071

Smithville Pit BBQ, 307 Royston St., Smithville, TX 78745, (512) 237-4244.
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10:00 am to 3:00 pm. Closed Sunday.
Valentina's Tex Mex BBQ, 7612 Brodie Ln., Austin, TX 76574, (512) 221-4248.
Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 8:00 am to 10:00 pm (or sold out). Monday, 8:00 am to 6:00 pm (or sold out). www.valentinastexmexbbq.com

La Barbecue, 1906 E. Cesar Chavez, Austin, TX 78702, (512) 605-9696.
Hours: Wednesday through Sunday, 11:00 am to 6:00 pm (or sold out).
www.labarbecue.com

Freedmen's, 2402 San Gabriel St., Austin, TX 78705, (512) 220-0953.
Hours: Tuesday and Wednesday, 11:00 am to 10:00 pm. Thursday through Saturday, 11:00 am to 12:00 am. Sunday, 11:00 am to 10:00 pm. Closed Mondays.
www.freedmensbar.com

Thursday, November 5, 2015

Texas Monthly BBQ Fest 2015 Attracts BBQ Lovers from Across the Nation


"BBQ Groupies."

Maybe that's what we are. If that has become our moniker, I guess I can live with that. The BBQ groupies came out in droves this year for TMBBQ Fest 2015 on the City Terrace at the Long Center in Austin. If you truly love music, you would make a comparable effort to attend ACL Fest. Movies and other media, SXSW. We love food, in particular Texas BBQ, and we travel the state (and beyond) in search of the best meat slingers we can find. Doesn't sound so much different than someone than follows their favorite band across country on tour, does it?

TMBBQ Fest is currently the one of the largest publicly-accessible BBQ celebrations in the country (as opposed to the competition circuit, which is an entirely different type of event). Some other well-attended (and growing) BBQ-related gatherings you should look into include the Houston Barbecue Festival, Smoked Dallas, Red Dirt BBQ & Music Festival, Meat Fight, Meatopia, and the Big Apple BBQ Block Party. It's no surprise the TMBBQ Fest has developed a following far beyond our own borders. Was it the impetus for some of the other festivals? That's hard to say with any certainty, but it seems likely in some cases given the timeline of their beginnings. With BBQ more popular than ever, people want to know more about its history, origins, and people, and TMBBQ Fest gives attendees a chance to sample some of the oldest and most acclaimed BBQ institutions in the state, all in one place. Texas BBQ lovers from far and wide are able to get a glimpse of "where it all began", meet the creative hardworking people behind it, and establish a level of connectivity to its roots not otherwise possible from a distance.

BBQ, and Texas BBQ specifically, is increasing in popularity, not just across the United States, but internationally as well. There is now truly legitimate Texas BBQ to be found across the US in Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington, New York City, Connecticut, Virginia, and Washington DC, just to name a few. You're also able to get your fix if you find yourself across the pond in both London and Paris! At this year's Fest I met and shared the experience with fellow BBQ lovers who traveled from Washington, Minnesota, Virginia, and Florida. "Celebrities" are beginning to take notice as well. Spotted in the crowd this year sampling the excellent Texas BBQ offerings were television personality Chuck Woolery, Texas troubadour Robert Earl Keen, Texas Land Commissioner George P. Bush, and Texas Governor Greg Abbott. I can affirm the Governor wasn't just there to check out the sauce!

2015 marks the sixth annual TMBBQ Fest, and the second I've been able to attend. I honestly believe the BBQ joints improved their products from what was offered last year, which makes my attendance at next year's Fest inevitable to determine if the trend will continue. 

My most memorable bites this year:

Though my list may look similar to others already published, I promise it wasn't lifted from or influenced by anyone else. Consider it a testament, as a consensus, that these bites were really that good!

Follow the BBQ...

- Scott


The calm before the storm

Big beef rib by Stiles Switch BBQ

Crowd queued up just prior to VIP opening at noon 

Bib beef rib bites from Louie Mueller Barbecue

Lining up for Buzzie's Bar-B-Q

Good stuff from Freedmen's and Hays Co. Bar-B-Que

Killen's Barbecue of Pearland in the house

Hatfield's BBQ slicing it up



Sausage from Louie Mueller Barbecue

General admission really fills the place up

Delicious lamb pop, plus beef rib and brisket bites from Louie Mueller Barbecue

The boys from Hays Co. Bar-B-Que in San Marcos

Beautiful slice from Stiles Switch

John Lewis and crew of La Barbecue

Roasted green chile sauce and homemade pickles from La Barbecue

Delicious baby back rib from Two Bros. BBQ Market

Chewy brisket chocolate chip cookie, topped with candied brisket, from Freedmen's


All pictures (c) Scott Sandlin, Texas Pit Quest. All rights reserved

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Pit Quest Saturday - An 8-Stop Central Texas BBQ Road Trip


By now, it should be no secret that I love hitting the road in search of great Texas BBQ. This past Saturday with my regular Quest partners Andrew and Bryan, we set out to tackle some of the treasured BBQ joints on the back roads to Austin, and also re-visit some of our favorites in the Austin area.

We had a guest with us on this trip--we were joined by Misty Roegels, of Roegels Barbecue Co. in Houston. Misty is always up for exploring Texas BBQ joints, and, being a BBQ proprietor with her husband Russell, she could justify the time away from the restaurant for a day as a little "research and development." Also joining us was Bryan's son Wyatt, making us a team of 5 this time.

We had planned to visit 6 or 7 BBQ joints, with contingencies for unanticipated closures or early sell-outs--an agenda that was certainly feasible, given our 10-stop trip earlier this year. Even though our first destination was planned to be Snow's in Lexington, right out of the gate we added City Meat Market in Giddings since we would be going right by there soon after their early morning opening. We thought the least we could do was give them a chance.

Monday, April 6, 2015

Snow's BBQ and Louie Mueller Barbecue - Pit Quest Saturday


Sometimes you need to commit to a early start and a long trip to get a chance at quality BBQ.

My friends @BBQBryan and @HoustonFed had a notion to make a "quick" two-stop run with our families on Easter weekend to hit Snow's BBQ in Lexington, TX, and Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor, TX, two of the TMBBQ Top 4 spots from the 2012 rankings. I was a bit hesitant at first, given the holiday, figuring many people would have a long weekend and be on the roads looking for bluebonnets, antiquing, and exploring. Eventually those droves would get hungry, and I knew stopping for BBQ would be a popular choice. Deep down, I knew I needed to make this trip, one way or another.

It still took me a few days to convince my family to join in, since we would have to depart at the unheard of hour of 6:30 am on a Saturday (cue the teen grumbling) to have a chance at the first stop of the day, Snow's. The opportunity for all of us to be available to go on a Pit Quest together doesn't come too often, so I was especially pleased for them to be able to join me for this particular Quest. I think the realization they would get a chance to sample quality BBQ from two of the best in the state eventually convinced them it would be worth it.

Snow's BBQ, Lexington, TX

Line at 9:00 am at Snow's BBQ, Lexington, TX

Snow's BBQ opens at 8:00 am, on Saturdays only, and serves until they run out. We arrived about 9:00 am and took our place in line, which moved at a decent pace. With family members in tow to hold our spot, I was able to slip out of the line for a bit to have a look around. Owner Kerry Bexley was working hard to get several to-go orders out for the day, and back and forth between the direct-heat pits was legendary Texas pitmaster, Tootsie Tomanetz, tending to sausage and ribs. Tootsie, always with time for a smile and kind word, spoke with me for a few minutes, fussed at me (in good fun) for wearing another BBQ joint's t-shirt, and even autographed a picture of the two of us taken at last year's Texas Monthly BBQ Festival (which I now treasure). If you don't know much about Tootsie, who turns 80 this month, you would do well to read Daniel Vaughn's interview with her from 2013. A remarkable person, in a position traditionally dominated by men in this state, Tootsie is now in her 49th year of working BBQ pits in the Lexington-Giddings area.

The legendary Tootsie Tomanetz, Pitmaster at Snow's BBQ

Bryan, always after that elusive perfect BBQ picture

There's a pretty shot, steam cascading over brisket with the breeze

On this day we were after the highly-regarded brisket and chicken, as well as sausage and a little turkey. The ribs were gone by the time we reached the ordering counter.  With the first bites of brisket, we knew we were onto something special. Succulent, moist and flavorful, melt-in-your-mouth type brisket. (Order 2 lbs. so you will have one to take home!) Excellent smoked sausage link with a well-balanced peppery spice and coarse texture. The chicken really got my attention. It's easy to overlook BBQ chicken with all the focus on beef in this state, but I had heard rumblings about the chicken from Snow's for a long time. This chicken should not be passed up, especially the dark meat. Flavor penetration was deep, but not too smoky. The crispy skin was unique and especially tasty; the skin on most chicken you get in BBQ joints has been sitting around sweating to the point of disintegration. Some of our dining companions also ordered the pork steak, sliced from thick cuts of smoked bone-in pork, and pronounced it outstanding as well.

Half chicken from Snow's, one of the best you'll find anywhere

It's easy to see how Snow's earned their #1 spot in the 2008 List, and stayed in the Top 4 in the 2012 List. Unfortunately, it's not on the main highways, and their Saturday-only hours limit most people's ability to get there. It's also not a place you're likely to drive past. For BBQ that's off the beaten path, you have to make a plan, and make it a destination event. Snow's BBQ is special, and worthy of this type of effort. This is BBQ that's not to be missed. 


Brisket, sausage link, and chicken from Snow's

Louie Mueller Barbecue, Taylor, TX

Louie Mueller's, Taylor, TX

Texas BBQ royalty? Louie Mueller Barbecue has spawned more of the current Texas pitmasters, either directly or indirectly, than any other single institution, so this title probably suits them perfectly. Their influence extends far beyond our border as well, like Billy Durney of Hometown Bar-B-Que in Brooklyn, NY, for instance, who considers Pitmaster Wayne Mueller "like a brother." The Texas BBQ family tree has a significant portion of its roots in Louie Mueller Barbecue.

Louie Mueller Barbecue traces its origins to Louie Mueller's arrival in Taylor in 1936 to operate its first Safeway Grocery Store, and opened its current location on W 2nd St. in Taylor in 1959. Stepping into Louie Mueller Barbecue is like stepping back into Texas history. From the creak of the wood plank floors, to the smoke-stained decorations and wall of business cards people have been leaving for years, upon entering you get the sense you're experiencing something special. We arrived about 11:00 am, and were in line just before the lunch crowd.

Main dining room at Louie Mueller's with pits in back

Screened west dining room

At Louie Mueller's, you order the beef rib. It's what you do. It is the gold standard of the big beef plate ribs that have become so popular in recent years. Why so popular? Visually, they are stunning, with a heavy black peppered bark, and rendered in the slow smoke to the point of release from its structure, the big plate bone. No sauce is necessary; one bite and you'll want the deep, rich flavors of the beef rib to stay true to the end. We also had to pick up just one of the house-made original link sausage, from which we were treated to the familiar snap of natural casing and clear running juices. The rib and the sausage were excellent, and worthy of a visit by themselves. We saved their renowned brisket for another day, giving us one more reason to return (soon).

Louie Mueller big beef rib and sausage link.

The gold standard of Texas beef ribs, up close and personal

We wrapped up our visit with a couple of orders of the homemade peach cobbler and a banana pudding to share. After two stops, it was time for some sweet to offset all that BBQ. The banana pudding here has a whipped texture, and plenty of wafers. The pastry portion of the peach cobbler has a cake-like consistency, and I would venture to guess the peaches were fresh, or at least frozen from last season's fresh peaches, given the depth of their flavor.

Peach cobbler from Louie Mueller's; if you have a Q Card, it's free with BBQ purchase (and topped with Blue Bell ice cream!)

This was a very manageable Quest from the Houston area for a Saturday. If you target a Snow's arrival at 9:00 am, and given it's only 30 minutes from there to Taylor, you can easily make it back to Houston by 3:00 pm. Very doable for the opportunity to hit two of the top BBQ joints in the world, and as a bonus you get to see some beautiful country along the way. 

I highly recommend it.

- Scott

332 miles on this day, round trip

Snow's BBQ, 516 Main St., Lexington, TX 78947, (979) 542-8189.
Hours: Saturday only, 8:00 am til sold out.
www.snowsbbq.com

Louie Mueller Barbecue, 206 W 2nd St., Taylor, TX 76574, (512) 352-6206.
Hours: Monday through Friday, 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. Saturday, 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. Closed Sunday.
www.louiemuellerbarbecue.com